Ben’s birthday was the 13th, which fell on a Friday this year. By lucky coincidence, he also had the day off. Karamay happens to be blessed with the presence of a German restaurant (Essen) and a Japanese store (MiniSo) which, as luck would have it, happen to be Ben’s favourite places, making Karamay the ultimate destination (obviously).

Not everyone could make it, but Kieran came down from Fuhai. The man himself arrived midday on Friday so we celebrated with a KFC. Tom and I were also paid a visit by Josh (our waiban) and another school official to see how Tom was after a bad bout of man-flu. They brought us eggs, instant porridge, crisps, milk, yoghurt and sweetbreads! We were also told that we’re part of the School family now. It really added to our sense of welcome over the past three months (how can a quarter be done already?!).

Mac arrived at around half one (at night). Having missed everything he’d managed to get a private car from Ürümqi. I went to meet him, dressed sensibly for the time of year in my pyjama shorts. Someone actually wolf-whistled. It was at least six or seven in the morning when we went to bed. The afternoon was broken with dumplings, shopping in MiniSo and a few games at the free chess centre by the river. Kieran started by saying, ‘Oh, I’ll be no good at this,’ before beating us with apparent ease after a few games to get into it.

Trains to Ürümqi had sold out, so we resorted to buses, which don’t take any longer but cost a lot more. By the time we’d got everyone tickets, it was time to meet at Essen. Mike turned up as well; after the meal (more homemade chips, pizza, and pasta) he helped us buy some home-brewed baijiu from a liquor shop. The percentage was not given, and we grossly misjudged how much we needed. Most of it is still in our fridge. Disgusting stuff.

On Sunday morning, Ben, Mac and I headed to Ürümqi. I have three days off, hence my visit. We passed Karamay’s ‘Carbon Sink Forest’ on the way, which is the reason that Karamay’s air is generally clear; elsewhere in Xinjiang, ‘Smoke’ is a valid weather forecast. Fukang is so small, you can quickly learn your way around its three jam-packed streets. Calum and I set to work on our Winter Travel plans with military precision – necessary since trains can sell out within minutes. To our surprise, a month’s travel all over China costs under £400 (the main cost is usually getting to and from China, but we’re already here…).

The evening I arrived we went out for noodles, followed by pool in the dodgiest bar I’ve ever seen. There was a group of men playing cards and gambling on one side of the room but we were shown to a table away from them. Apparently the place could well be a front, but it “should be fine” as long as we keep to ourselves. Uhhhh. He taught me a game involving playing cards, which allows any number of players to take part – you each take 5 cards and have to pot the snooker balls with the same numbers as your cards.

We dog-sat Sharon and Stephen’s dog, Scruffy, whom Calum occasionally calls Remi (Calum’s family dog). As we planned our travels he found a warm patch of their heated floor for a nap (oh yes, did I forget to mention their heated floor?!). At Calum’s club I taught Greek; not quite English, I know.

Our PT Desk Officer arrived the next day for his annual visit. Formal aspects began once I was out of the way, so I hope I wasn’t too intrusive. I made Ben’s birthday cake and helped clean the apartment in advance of Dave’s inspection, before sitting in on the lesson observations. Both followed the same plan (directions around Fukang). The level of engagement was impressive; many of my students are disdainful of any attempt to teach English.

—TJC

Featured image: Calum and Ben playing pool.